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Keeping up with the Kardashians Is Ending. However Their Exploitation of Black Women’s Aesthetics Continues

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- Cady Lang @cadylang

'It’s no secret that they’ve adopted many types that Black ladies have created and made them more palatable'

The inaugural episode of Keeping up with the Kardashians, which debuted on E! in 2007, begins with an irreverent home scene. Kim Kardashian, the undisputed protagonist of the present, rummages by way of the fridge as she’s teased by her household for the scale of her posterior.

“I suppose she’s got a bit of junk in her trunk,” says Kris Jenner, the family’s matriarch and “momager.” She calls her daughter’s butt “jiggly,” as Kim’s sister Khloé Kardashian chimes in from the kitchen table, “Kim’s all the time had an ass.”

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That the opener of the watershed actuality show-which ends June 10 after 20 seasons-centered on the family’s fixation on Kim’s rear foreshadowed the now-ubiquitous public obsession along with her body, and particularly that specific feature of it. This outsize fascination was perhaps finest embodied by her controversial 2014 Paper magazine cowl, shot by Jean-Paul Goude, the place her naked backside is flanked by the road, “Break the Web Kim Kardashian.” On social media and in quite a few suppose items, the cowl drew comparisons to Saartjie Baartman, the nineteenth-century South African woman recognized as the “Hottentot Venus.”

In this problematic comparison lie the troubling roots of the obsession with the Kardashian aesthetic. Baartman was paraded semi-nude, her posterior exhibited as a curio of sorts for European audiences that could, for a price, touch her body-a sobering image of the exploitation and degradation that Black ladies and their our bodies have suffered for centuries. By distinction, Kim has explicitly benefitted from her a lot-talked-about determine, tapping into an viewers that sees her as no unusual white lady, however instead as an exotic and attention-grabbing one.

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Read More: Kim Kardashian’s Nude Photos and Saartjie’s Choice: History’s Problem with Fascinating Bodies

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It’s a vicious culture that valorizes curves on rich, racially ambiguous white women, but stigmatizes these traits on Black women; one that plays into a longtime fascination with the aesthetics of Blackness and an unwillingness to engage with the ugliness of anti-Black racism at the same time. And it’s in the Kardashian-Jenner sisters’ wholehearted embrace of this tension that their family has forever changed the ways society thinks about bodies and beauty, forging the requirements which have outlined the previous decade.

Between their loyal viewership on tv and big social media presences (Kim was probably the most followed person on Instagram in 2015 and at the moment has the sixth greatest account with 227 million followers), the household blazed a path for a new model of celeb: the influencer. Even after Maintaining with the Kardashians ends and the household moves on to their new deal to create content for Disney and Hulu, this legacy will remain. The Kardashian-Jenner look is ubiquitous: Heavily contoured makeup, dramatically curvy bodies and plumped lips have had cyclical moments of recognition, however they owe a lot of their mainstream favor in recent years to the broad influence of the sisters.

The ‘exotic’ white girl and cultural appropriation

While the allure of the “exotic” white woman is as old as the longtime debates about Cleopatra’s racial background, Kim has pioneered the branding of it as an identification, leveraging it for the creation of a vogue and beauty empire, leaning into the allure of her fame and endless sources to type a model. A 2018 examine by the American Society for Plastic Surgeons found that butt-enhancing procedures had increased by 256% since 2000. From sporting Fulani braids, which have roots in West Africa, and attributing the style to Bo Derek, one other white lady, to the multiple occasions she’s been referred to as out for carrying Blackface by carrying skin-darkening makeup, Kim is no stranger to creating deliberate magnificence and magnificence choices that depend on racial efficiency-then turning around and finding ways to capitalize on it. (Kim has staunchly denied doing Blackface-after she was accused of wearing Blackface for a 2017 KKW Magnificence marketing campaign, she informed the brand new York Occasions that she “would obviously never want to offend anyone,” and later changed the photographs.) Regardless of a cultural appropriation scandal ahead of its launch, her shapewear line SKIMS has found a powerful base of consumers who put their trust in Kim and her hourglass shape to ship a product that may assist their own curves-or the curves that they get surgically to emulate her.

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Her sisters have all followed suit, most notably her youngest sibling, Kylie Jenner, whose dramatic beauty and body evolution in current seasons peaked with a 12 months-lengthy denial of having lip fillers earlier than she copped to having them in a confessional on the present. (In 2019, she bought a majority stake of the company to makeup big Coty for $600 million.) She then parlayed the controversy into promoting her Kylie Lip Kits, a enterprise that changed into Kylie Cosmetics, a multimillion-dollar cosmetics business. At a cosmetic surgical procedure clinic within the U.Ok., inquiries into lip augmentation jumped 70% in 24 hours after the episode aired, whereas the American Society for Plastic Surgeons reported a double-digit enhance in lip procedures performed in 2016, the yr after Jenner stated she bought filler.

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The implications of Blackfishing

Perhaps it should come as no shock that the time period Blackfishing (a portmanteau of Black and catfishing that describes a step beyond cultural appropriation, when folks alter their look with make-up, beauty surgical procedure, filters or digital enhancing to appear Black) originated on social media in 2018, properly into the reign of the Kardashian-Jenners’ reputation. Wanna Thompson, the journalist who coined the term while elaborating on the phenomenon in a viral Twitter thread of “white ladies cosplaying as Black women” that featured countless Kardashian-Jenner simulacrum, says that the sisters, who've been criticized for acts like claiming that they “started wigs” to carrying grills, have played a significant position in normalizing and even popularizing Blackfishing with photographs of themselves projecting racial ambiguity.

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“They’ve been referred to as out for cultural appropriation for a decade plus now, and it’s no secret that they’ve adopted many styles that Black women or Black culture have created and made them more palatable,” Wanna Thompson says, recollecting when Kim wore cornrows and wonder writers dubbed them “boxer braids,” rebranding the longtime protecting model worn by Black women as a trend impressed by boxers. “Now folks assume they’re copying the Kardashian-Jenners after they gown or do their hair or tan their pores and skin a certain manner.”

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The white mainstream popularization of Black model or options by the use of Blackfishing, a lot of which has been perpetuated by the Kardashians and Jenners, presents a sobering paradox: while it exhibits that magnificence and physique standards are shifting as they’ve always finished, this transformation comes by means of white women, in the end to the detriment of Black ladies. The form a person is born with is nothing to guage, but Kim and other white ladies with curves like hers aren’t subjected to the centuries-lengthy objectification, hypersexualization and disdain that Black women have confronted for his or her our bodies. In this, the Kardashian-Jenner sisters’ affect is tip-to-toe: while Black women like Florence “Flo-Jo” Griffith-Joyner have been topic to racist and classist stereotypes for sporting elaborate nail art and acrylics-lengthy markers of Black women’s fashion and self-expression-Kylie was hailed for launching an modern trend when she began displaying off her nail art on social media.

“It makes magnificence standards adhere to whiteness even more intently,” says Ayanna Thompson, the creator of Blackface. ” What’s probably the most fascinating factor: a lovely white woman who can look stunning even when she’s attempting to look Black? “Because it’s like, ‘She’s so beautiful, as a result of she’s white, even when she puts on the Blackface.’ It leaves Black women at the bottom rung of desirability.

Some have prompt that the sisters have strategically tried to distance themselves from accusations of appropriation and Blackfishing by means of their private relationships or even advocacy work. As Allison P. Davis wrote in Vulture when Kim and Kanye West’s marriage ended, the Kardashian sisters’ “relationships with Black men, and the multiracial youngsters they had with them, appeared to supply some sort of cultural cowl for his or her appropriation.”

Performance and revenue

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It’s the performative yet comparatively ephemeral area of social media, where a controversial picture may be quickly posted then deleted, that Ayanna Thompson argues has offered an atmosphere especially ripe for the Kardashian-Jenner sisters-with their mixed social media audience of 771 million followers-to experiment with racial efficiency by means of Blackfishing, which Ayanna Thompson sees as following within the racist tradition of Blackface minstrelsy.

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